How Long does it Take to Fit a Boiler?

Winter is coming, and you need to prepare yourself for the chilling cold it comes with. Ensure you ready your boiler to keep your house warm throughout the cold season. Whether you need to install the first boiler in your quarters, add a new one, or replace an existing boiler; this guide is all you need to get the task done, hassle-free.

Why not also read: How Long Does a Boiler Last?

Here are 3 scenarios that determine the time you require to set up your boiler fully.

Straight boiler swap

A straight boiler swap is also called like-to-like boiler replacement. It involves switching a broken boiler with a similar type of boiler in the same location.

Time required

A like-to-like swap is the fastest type of boiler installation as the boiler goes into the same location, uses the existing pipe-work, and set up is virtually the same as the previous boiler. Usually, this takes one day. However, you may require an extra half day if:

  1. The existing pipe-work doesn’t directly align with your new boiler.
  2. Your building’s regulations require you to upgrade the gas run when replacing your boiler.

Installing a boiler similar to your existing one in a new location

If you require a new boiler fitted in a new location, or you want an existing boiler moved to a different place in your house, the process will take a little longer than a simple boiler swap. If you need to move your boiler from the kitchen to the garage or basement, for instance, the boiler installation engineer will have to:

  1. Cap off the present gas piping.
  2. Install additional gas pipe-work to the new boiler position.
  3. Adjust segments of the existing pipe-work so that all radiators can heat up properly.

Time required

You’ll need 1.5 to 2 days to fit a boiler or shift an existing boiler in a new position in your house. Either way, the time required for this kind of boiler installation increases with the distance from your current boiler.

Boiler system upgrade

Updating a boiler system is more complicated than a simple like-to-like replacement or new boiler installation. It involves changing one type of boiler for another, more suitable option. Examples of boiler system upgrades include swapping a back boiler for a combi boiler, replacing a combi boiler with a system boiler, and switching from a system boiler to a combination type.

Time required

Updating a boiler system requires more work and time than the other two types of boiler installation. This is because the boiler specialist has to:

  1. Install a boiler cylinder and revise the pipe-work when upgrading from a combination to a system boiler.
  2. Take out the boiler cylinder and re-work the gas piping and central heating structure if you’re upgrading from a system to a combi boiler.
  • Fit a condense pipe from the new boiler to a drain if it isn’t a condensing boiler.

Typically, a boiler system upgrade takes between 2.5 to 3.5 days depending on the accessibility and complexity of appliances involved.

Usually, it takes 8 hours to 4 days to fit a boiler depending on the nature of your boiler installation.

How Huch Does Central Heating Cost per Hour?

Not every homeowner is keen on knowing the amount of electricity or gas they use every month. But even then, it’s wise always to check your monthly billing to ensure you haven’t been undercharged or overcharged by the energy supplier. Moreover, the moment you know how much energy you use every month, you’ll be in a better position to take intentional steps to reduce your usage and save on energy bills.

Why not also read: Cost of Installing Central Heating

But before you can save energy or lean your monthly energy billings, you need to understand how much energy a boiler consumes every hour. The amount of energy a boiler uses depends on the efficiency, size and the number of hours it runs daily. Today, boiler sizes are measured using kilowatts (kW) and often range between 24 and 27 kW, 35 and 42 kW, and 28 and 34 kW. If you have a house with a single bathroom and 10 radiators, you should install a boiler between a 24 and 27 kW rating. On the other hand, a large house with more than 20 radiators and more than three bathrooms need a boiler that is between 35 and 42 kW.

So what is a kilowatt?

kWh is a unit of measuring energy. It shows the amount of energy that the boiler can use if it runs for an hour. This means that a boiler with a 1kW rating would use a single kWh if it ran for an hour.

Using this unit of measurement, it’s easier to calculate the amount of energy (gas or electricity) that the boiler uses and how much of the energy costs. For instance, if you have a 24 kW boiler, it means that it will use 24kWh every 60 minutes. It’s approximated that 1 kWh costs 3.8 pence. Doing some quick calculations, it only means that to run a 24 kW boiler for 60 minutes would cost 9 pence. And as pointed out earlier, this cost changes depending on the age and size of the boiler and the cost of energy in your region.

According to studies conducted in 2017, the average UK home consumed anything between 8000 and 17,000 kWh. This means that the average boiler costs are £1,123 for both electricity and gas. To learn how much energy consumes every hour, you can install a smart meter. Most companies and suppliers are more than willing to install this device at no extra cost.

How much gas should boilers use?

It can be difficult to quote specific figures. However, depending on the size of the boiler, you can use the boiler size to estimate. For instance, if you have a 34 kW boiler, it will use the same amount per hour. If it runs for 6 hours daily, it means the energy used is 204 kW (assuming it is operating at maximum efficiency. If it’s not, this figure will be higher even if the rooms are nor warm and comfortable enough)

The next time you receive your energy bill, read the energy usage breakdown. Generally, the energy bill during winter should be more than what you receive during winter. But if you don’t think the reason for the high bill is the change in season, contact the energy supplier for an explanation.

How Long Does a Boiler Last?

According to statistics, Combi boilers are by far the most installed boilers in the Nottingham and the U.K. This is because they are a combination of efficient water heaters and central heating boilers. In addition to saving space, these boilers help to deliver hot water to taps and showers in the house from the mains without pumping. When you take a glance at a Combi boiler, it’s easy to understand why many people are so taken by it. But now the question is, how long does a boiler last?

Well, the answer to this question is dependent on a couple of factors, which includes the quality of your appliance and, generally, how well you look after the boiler. Below is a quick guide to answer this and other questions.

The average lifespan of the Combi boiler

Though they are all efficient in their operation and saving on energy bills and space, they differ in terms of longevity and quality. You should be aware of this when you are searching the market for a new Combi boiler. You shouldn’t go for the cheapest model on the market just so that you can save money in the short term as you might end up spending a fortune in the long run.

Generally, you can expect a boiler to last for about 15 years or even longer if you get a high-quality boiler and perform regular servicing. Because of this, you should always be keen on the warranties manufacturers offer for their boilers. They can give you insight into how long the boiler can last.

Should Combi boilers be serviced?

Servicing your boiler will indeed cost you a pretty penny. However, it’s a worthwhile undertaking since it will save you money in the long run in terms of repairs and energy efficiency. Getting the system checked by a Gas Safe engineer once yearly will help in ensuring the boiler remains in tip-top condition. During a servicing session, the engineer will inspect the heat exchanger, seas and electrical connections. They’ll also check the boiler pressure and boiler parts for leaks and signs of rusting. Any damaged parts will be replaced before it causes other parts to fail, as well.

Fixing a Combi boiler

If the boiler fails suddenly or develops some noise, it doesn’t mean you should install a new one. Many boiler problems can be fixed. And shocking enough, most solutions are easy. Some of the quick fixes include;

  • Resetting the timer
  • Checking boiler pressure and bleeding radiators of filling it up
  • Resetting the boiler
  • Defrosting the condensate pipe
  • Increasing temperature settings

Why not also read:

5 Common Alpha Boilers Problems

5 Common Baxi Boilers Problems

5 Common Worcester Boilers Problems and How to Fix Them

5 Common Ideal Boilers Problems

But if the Combi boiler is always breaking down, you should consider investing in a new one. The price of a new Combi boiler depends on the size and brand. As you get a new boiler, you should also factor in the price of installation by a Gas Safe engineer. A Combi boiler for a small house costs anything from £600 – £1,500. For a semi-detached house, expect to spend anything from £700 – £2,000.

Cost of Installing Central Heating

It is surprising to learn that some UK homes still use old-fashioned heating methods and systems like electric heaters and gas fires even with the advent of more efficient systems like Combi boilers. While the initial cost of installing a new central heating system can be scary, if you calculate the long term costs, you’ll realize that a Combi boiler will save you money through improved energy efficiency and reduced energy bills.

Why not also read: Why You Should Power Flush Your Radiators?

Now, the price of new central heating systems (like everything else), varies and also depends on the size of your home and family and how complicated the installation is. When you request for a boiler installation quotation, the cost will include the cost of buying a new boiler ideal for your home, additional pipework needed and labour costs by Gas Safe engineers.

The cost of installing a new central heating system

The number of radiators and bathrooms in your home, coupled with its size, will help in determining the kind of boiler you get – one that will provide you with optimum efficiency and comfort. Generally, there are three boiler types in the industry – these include conventional, system and Combi boilers.

If you want to have a system or conventional boiler installed, you will incur the cost of installing a hot water tank. But since Combi boilers don’t use hot water tanks, they are less expensive. And if you are replacing a system or conventional boiler, you will incur the extra cost of removing the water tank.

Usually, the higher the kW output you need, the more expensive the boiler will be. But even then, we should point out that some brands are more costly than others.

Extra requirements and parts

The boiler is a single element of the central heating system. There are additional elements that are needed to help turn your home into a warm and comfortable space. These extra parts will increase the installation cost. For instance;

  • Buying new radiators if the current ones are old, blocked, faulty and inefficient
  • A power flush may be necessary to get rid of sludge and debris from the current system
  • You may have to install filters to help in increasing the lifespan of the boiler and to help in improving the boiler efficiency
  • The pipework might need to be replaced or rerouted depending on its current condition and if you want to install the boiler in a different position.

These are some examples of extra parts you might need for a complete installation. It is in no way an exhaustive list.

Labour

It’s important to ensure that you are working with a Gas Safe registered engineer. This is because only they are allowed to work on gas appliances in the UK. Also, hiring mediocre companies and individuals to help with the installation may work against you since it will void the manufacturer’s warranty. And if anything goes wrong, you’ll have to foot the complete bill.

There’s no doubt that new boiler installation is a huge financial undertaking. But the good news is that the cost will pay for itself over time and second, most boiler installation companies have flexible payment plans you can take advantage of.

5 Ways to Get Your Boiler Ready for Winter

We the Brits take pride in our weather. From time to time, we experience cold days, especially during winter when the temperatures drop to lows. What’s worse is the fact that the low temperatures can last for a couple of days or weeks.

Now, when the temperatures drop below freezing, you want your house to remain warm. This is where your new boiler comes into play. In the guide below, we shall share some tips on how you can ensure your boiler serves you efficiently through the winter season.

5 Tips How To Keep Your Boiler Working Over Winter

Insulate the condensate pipe

Boilers heat houses by circulating hot water through their pipeworks. During winter, the water that helps to keep you warm can turn against you. The water can freeze inside the condensate pipe. This is one of the most leading causes of boiler malfunction during the cold season. Homeowners spend a lot of money getting the problem fixed. Luckily, you can save yourself the inconvenience and hassle by insulating the condensate pipe. This process is best done by a Gas Safe engineer in case alterations are necessary.

Bleed the radiators

Radiators are the heating points of boilers. They spread heat from the water to their immediate environment. They are efficient and heat the room according to the boiler temperature settings. But sometimes air accumulates in the radiator and creates some form of insulation inside against the hot water. When this happens, the bottom is hotter than the top.

As a result of the insulation, the efficiency of the boiler drops and you start spending a lot of money on energy bills. The solution to this problem is bleeding the radiators. Luckily, this process doesn’t require special tools aside from a radiator key that you can buy from your local hardware store.

Check boiler pressure

Another cause of boiler problems during winter is low boiler pressure. This phenomenon is common since the boiler system loses water over time. As such, it’s normal to repressurizing the boiler twice every year. But if you realize you are doing it too often, then the system needs servicing.

Why not also read: Boiler Losing Pressure No Leak

Normal boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar when the system is off. If the pressure falls below 1 bar, you can re-pressurize it through the filling loops. As you add water to the system, keep an eye on the pressure gauge being sure not to surpass the 1.5 bar threshold.

Servicing

A boiler service is a sure way of ensuring the boiler is in tip-top shape as you usher in the cold season. The Gas Safe engineer you hire will inspect boiler parts for damage and wear and tear. Any problem detected can be solved before it escalates into a big problem requiring a lot of money to sort out.

Why not also read: Why Should You Service Your Boiler

Inspect the thermostat

Thermostats help in controlling room temperatures. If a thermostat is faulty, you’ll notice the rooms are either too cold or too hot. Either way, it can be frustrating and uncomfortable. Luckily, a faulty thermostat requires a quick replacement, and you are good to go.

Conclusion

If you follow the above tips and steps, your boiler should be ready for the cold season. But even then, you need to keep an eye out for any anomaly and attend to it ASAP. Also, for any repairs, call our Gas Safe engineers.

5 Common Alpha Boilers Problems

Are you looking for reliable answers to the most common Alpha boilers faults? At Boiler Installation Nottingham, we have this quick guide that covers some of the most common faults associated with Alpha boilers. While the guide tries to cover all Alpha boiler models, the CB24, Intex 28X, CD28X and CD28C are the most commonly featured.

Some of the fixes to the problems are simple. But even for the simplest fixes, if you have any shred of doubt when dealing with the boiler, pick up the phone and call an engineer. There’s no price tag for your safety and wellbeing and boilers can be unpredictable under inexperienced hands.

  1. Low Boiler Pressure (Fault Code E10)

No matter where you look, as long as you have a boiler, you’re going to have boiler pressure problems at some point.

Boilers heat water under pressure. Over time, the boiler pressure can drop and you only need to top up the boiler using the external filling loop. When the boiler loses pressure, it will display an E10 fault code on the display panel.

The code is an indication that the boiler has lost pressure. In addition to the code, if the boiler pressure falls too low for the boiler to operate safely, the boiler will lockout. Typically, this happens when the pressure level drops to 0.8 bars or less.

Cause: There are two reasons your boiler could be losing pressure. The first is the natural path that boilers take and lose pressure gradually over some time. If the drop in boiler pressure is constant and spontaneous, it is linked directly to a heating system leak.

Leaks can happen in different parts of the system include pumps, expansion vessels and even the radiator. Without finding the leak and fixing it, topping up the boiler and resetting it will only work for a short while.

Fix: You need to find the source of the leak. If it’s a faulty valve, it needs to be replaced. You can also check for a blown pressure valve as well as soldered joints on the pipework. Once you find the leak and fix it, you can follow the repressurisation protocol on the Alpha boiler user manual to restore the boiler pressure.

Why not also read: 5 Common Baxi Boilers Problems

  1. Lukewarm water

This problem happens often in older Alpha boilers. As some of the parts get worn out, the boiler might not be as efficient in heat transfer and the water coming out might only be lukewarm. The problem is also common with other types of boilers.

Cause: Limescale build-up and a faulty NTC thermistor are to blame. The NTC thermistor monitors the temperature of the water. If it’s not working correctly, it can pass the wrong information to the boiler resulting in inadequate heat transfer.

If you find that the thermistor is working correctly, check for hotspots on the central heating pipes. Dents and bend sin the pipes or limescale build-up near the thermistor can cause the same problem.

A faulty diverter valve, defective thermostat or a blocked diaphragm could also cause the water to be lukewarm. Identifying which of these is not working properly is critical in determining the right fix.

Fix: You need a boiler engineer for this one. He will test the NTC thermistor to make sure it is producing the right readings. If the thermistor is at fault, there’s no shortcut. It needs to be replaced.

If the thermistor is working correctly, the engineer will check for limescale build-up around the thermistor. The limescale has to be removed to restore the flow of water. A hot flush can remove the limescale or replacing the affected parts of the pipework.

If there’s build upon the thermistor shelves, replacement or cleaning is required.

For a faulty thermostat or diverter valve, these need to be replaced to guarantee the boiler works properly again.

If each of these areas checks out and you still can’t find what the problem is, try checking if the radiators are heating up when you run hot water taps. If this happens to be the case, it points to the thermistor being the culprit.

  1. Red (A-Indicator) light is on

Alpha boilers often display errors and faults with red or yellow lights on the display panel. The different colours and actions of the lights point to different types of problems. Deciphering the actions and colours of the light is critical in repairing the boiler.

Cause: A solid red A Indication light which shows a 47 fault code on the boiler panel points to a burner that has failed to light.

Fix: Attempt to reset the boiler by turning the boiler switch to 3. After about 30 seconds, the boiler should restart. If the indicator still behaves the same way, it’s time to get in touch with a Gas Safe engineer. The engineer will check for blockages and check the state of the burner. This problem has a higher chance of happening if the boiler is old. If the burner is out of commission, changing it might cost a pretty penny. You should consider replacing the boiler with a new and more efficient boiler.

  1. (A) Indicator Flashing Red

A red flash on the A-Indicator accompanied by a 2, 0A3 or a 25 error code points to a faulty thermostat. Usually, the overheat thermostat is the problem. The fault is followed by a boiler lockout.

Cause: There are a number of things that could be causing problems. The most common is an airlock in the heat exchanger. Other culprits are a primary flow blockage, a faulty pump, a closed-circuit valve for the heating, a faulty flue sensor and a blocked flue outlet.  There are other factors associated with this problem. That’s why you might want to get an engineer come and give the boiler a look.

Fix: Before attempting any fixes, the engineer must run tests to determine what the problem is. If it’s a blockage, the blockage should be cleared. An airlock should be removed using the bleeding screw if the boiler has one and if there are faulty parts they should be replaced.

  1. No light on the boiler

This happens rarely but can send all your alarm bells ringing. Every time you power on the boiler, there’s a light. If the light is out, it means there’s no power to the boiler. The boiler will not only fail to light up but will also not ignite. That means no heating and no hot water.

Cause: The problem is usually an electrical malfunction. It could be as simple as a blown fuse around the house, the plug or the socket. It could also be a problem with the circuit around the house.

Fix: Start by plugging other appliances in the same socket to see if they work. If they do, you can rule out any circuit or socket problems. You can proceed to check the plug. If it’s working fine, you need to call in an engineer to test the electrical components and boards to make sure they are not the problem.

Final thoughts

There are other minor problems like gurgling sounds in the pipes that you might experience with your Alpha boiler. These are not unique to Alpha boilers and you should follow the same tips offered for other boiler brands.

It’s always a good idea to run some diagnostics on the boiler if you have some experience before calling an engineer. This saves you unnecessary costs and also saves the engineer the time of coming up to your residence.

However, if you’re not sure of what to do, give the engineer a call. Most will offer you valuable information and quick tips on what you should do before they can determine if the boiler problem warrants a visit. For additional tips, you can also refer to the boiler’s user manual.

5 Common Baxi Boilers Problems

Baxi has enjoyed a long and lustrous run in the British market. Best known for their back boilers back in the day, times have changed, and Baxi still remains among the leading brands in the heating market.

There’s no doubt that Baxi boilers have come a long way. But, even with the advancements, boilers are still engineering works with moving parts and hence will occasionally run into problems. Like other brands, there are some problems that Baxi boilers are more likely to face. It’s important to know what to expect and what to do if anyone of these problems affects your boiler. At New Boiler Nottingham, we have this quick guide resolving common baxi boiler problems.

  1. Boiler Lockout

Baxi Solo 1PF and 2PF are notorious with boiler lockdowns. Every boiler has a lockdown protocol. The lockdown is not a problem or a failure. In fact, it’s a safety measure aimed at keeping the boiler safe and preventing further damage or harm.

There are numerous reasons why a boiler would go into lockdown. You have to identify which of them is the problem. Once it’s sorted, your boiler should start without a problem.

Why not also read: 5 Common Worcester Boilers Problems and How to Fix Them

Cause: There are several issues that can cause a boiler lockout. With the Baxi range, the leading cause is usually overheating, but low boiler pressure can also cause the boiler to lockdown.

Fix: Start by checking the boiler pressure. All you need to do is check the pressure gauge. If the boiler pressure is low, all you need to do is top up using the external loop, and the boiler should start. If the boiler pressure checks out, you can check the overheat thermostat. On the 1PF, check the left side of the orange thermostat knob. Press the button. This should reset the boiler. On the 2PF, turn the knob to ‘Reset’ or ‘Off’ then on again.

  1. Boiler leaking

No boiler is immune from leaks. As the boiler grows older, it’s more susceptible to leaks due to corrosion and high pressure.

Cause: The cause of the leak depends on the location of the leak. In most cases, the leak is caused by a broken or worn out seal or the pressure valve.

Fix: If the leak is caused by the pressure valve, the boiler pressure could be too high. The valve is designed to fail when the pressure is too high to prevent damage. If it’s around a seal, or in most cases, the entire pump might need to be replaced. This is a job best handled by a professional.

  1. Loud Bangs inside the boiler

A variety of Baxi boiler brands like the 133HE Plus and other HE Plus models are commonly associated with this problem. The loud bang often happens when the boiler ignites. In some cases, the boiler fires up then shuts down.

Cause: The mineral fibre burner in this range of boilers is prone to degeneration over time. It could be causing the problem.

Fix: If the boiler is more than 5 years old, consider changing the fibre burner. It’s best to have an experienced engineer handle the replacement because the burner is very delicate and can easily run into problems.

  1. Ignition problems

The Baxi Bacelona and the Baxi 100E experience ignition problems the most. With these models, you might experience a boiler lockout. Depending on the cause of the failed ignition, the fault code on the display and the consequent fix could vary.

Cause: There are several problems that can lead to ignition problems. These include fan fault (code 160), PCB malfunctions (E168) or overheating flue (E131). Each of the problems has a different fix. In isolated cases, there could also be a faulty gas valve. It’s important to check that as well if you can’t find what the problem is.

Fix: The common fix is replacing the chamber seals. But, you could also have the PCB has given a close look and the fan as well. If the fan is the problem, have an engineer look at it to determine what the problem could be. Ideally, the boiler will not start unless the fan is running.

  1. No hot water

Cause: Lack of hot water in your taps usually points to only one culprit – the diverter valve. It’s hard to diagnose if the problem is the valve without the help of a professional engineer to take the boiler apart so there’s not much you can do in this case.

Fix: The only remedy is to replace the diverter valve. Once the valve is replaced, the heating should work just fine.

Boilers are a great addition to every home. They bring a sense of comfort and luxury and make simple tasks even easier to complete. But, you should be wary of boiler fails. Having a few tips can help to remedy the situation and ensure you get the boiler back up and running in the shortest time possible.

5 Common Worcester Boilers Problems and How to Fix Them

Worcester boilers are a staple in many homes. The boilers are revered for their reliability and longevity. Despite the quality build, your boiler may still run into problems at some point. At New Boiler Nottingham, we have this quick guide resolving common Worcester boiler problems.

Whether you’ve had a Worcester boiler for a while and you’re starting to experience some challenges, or you’re looking to invest in one, knowing some of the common faults is key. Some of the common Worcester boiler problems are relatively easy to solve, but you need to know what you’re looking at.

Here are five of the most common Worcester Boiler problems that you might come across and some suggested fixes. Remember, if at any point you’re unsure of what to do, let a professional handle the problem.

  1. No hot water

This problem can present itself in a variety of different ways. It’s important to pinpoint the one that applies to your Worcester boiler to make the right diagnosis and fix.

  • No hot water in the shower only
  • There’s heating but no hot water
  • No heating and no hot water
  • Coldwater works, but there’s no heating.

Each of the problems has a different diagnosis and a different fix.

No heating and no hot water.

Why not also read: 5 Common Ideal Boilers Problems

If both heating and hot water are not working, it’s possibly a power supply issue with the boiler. For further diagnosis, check the control panel and see if there are any lights on.

Scenario 1: If it appears blank, it’s definitely a power issue:

Fix: Start by checking the connections to make sure they are firmly in place as well as the boiler’s fuse. Reset the boiler and see if it works.

If it doesn’t, check the fuse box, the electric meter, the PCH or the fused spur. If all of these check out and your boiler still won’t start, it’s a good idea to call in an expert.

Scenario 2: If the control panel has lights on, but you still have no heating or hot water, the heat pump could be to blame.

For diagnosis, feel the return pipes for warmth. If there’s no warmth or heat on the pipes, the pump has probably failed.

Heating works but no hot water

If the heating is working fine, but you have no hot water, it possible the diverter valve is faulty. Before you settle on changing the diverter valve, check the S-Plan and Y-Plan zone valves to make sure they are not to blame.

No hot water in the shower only

This is a cheap fix and often an easy one as well with minimal skills. If the shower doesn’t have hot water, the anti-scalding device could be set wrong, or the mixing valve is broken or stuck. You can replace the mixing valve. But, before you do that, check to make sure the anti-scalding device is in the right position.

  1. Leaking boiler

Worcester boilers are built using high-quality materials. But, given the high pressure under which the boiler works, the period it’s been in use and other factors, the boiler could start leaking. The biggest problem with a leaking boiler is not just the leak but the other crucial parameters like low pressure and constant boiler lockouts it can cause.

The longer the leak is left without repair, the more the damage caused and the higher the cost of repair is going to be. Depending on the location of the leak, it could easily damage the electrical components, which presents another problem.

When your Worcester boiler has a leak, it will likely show an EA338 fault code.

Cause: More often than not, the leak is as a result of blown pump seals which can happen to any boiler.

Fix: Boiler leaks are not always serious. But they can be. Before you call in an engineer, you can run a quick diagnosis to help you determine if you need one.

  • Check the condition of the pump and if it’s secure. Also, check the seals to see if they are degrading. If the pump is insecure and the seals are out of shape, you need a new pump unit.
  • Consider if the pressure could have gone too high and blown the pressure release valve. If it’s the case, you need to replace the valve.
  • Check if the leak is in the pipes as well. If it is, find the location. For leaks around joints, the fix is easier. If the pipework is not correct, you need an engineer to step in.
  • During the rainy season, installations with the flue installed incorrectly can cause water to lead down into the boiler. If you suspect this is the case, you need to call in an expert immediately!

If the pump seals are the problem, it might be easier to replace the entire pump instead of the seals only. The task is often easier, and the price difference is not much.

  1. Boiler losing pressure

Boiler pressure is a common problem with all brands of boilers. Over time, your Worcester boiler is going to lose pressure gradually.

Cause: A drop in boiler pressure can be through a normal process which happens over time and a leak in the system can also cause it. Before you try to fix the problem, you must rule out any leaks. This will avoid further damage and constant boiler lockouts every time the boiler pressure falls below the permitted values.

Fix: If there’s no leak in the system, repressurising the boiler is an easy process that doesn’t require the input of a boiler engineer. You only need to find the external filling loop and use it to add water into the boiler. You need to make sure you read and practice the safety protocol on your boiler’s user manual before repressurising.

If there’s a leak, you need to find the leak and have it fixed. Once the leak is fixed and the boiler repressurised, make sure the pressure is just right then reset the boiler.

  1. Boiler is Overheating

An overheating boiler can be a source of concern. If your boiler is having overheating problems, you can find various fault codes on the control panel which include: d1 286, E9 219, E5 332, E5 218 or E9 224.

Each of the different fault codes points to a different problem with a different fix. It’s recommended that you get the problem properly figured out before you attempt any quick fixes.

Cause: There are a few things you might want to look into if your boiler is overheating:

  • Issues with the fan
  • A faulty pump
  • A blocked or frozen condensate pipe
  • Limescale build-up on the heat exchange

For frozen condensate pipe, you might notice that the boiler often overheats in the morning when it’s cold.

In isolated and rare cases, an overheating boiler has also been attributed to the thermistor failing to relay accurate information to the boiler.

Fix: Once you determine what the underlying cause, there are a few steps you can take. It’s best to start with thawing the condensate pipe. It’s the simplest fix, and you don’t need a budget to fix it. If that doesn’t work, the other problems are best handled by an expert.

This is also an excellent opportunity to clean out the boiler and the system out. It can go a long way in not only helping to restore the normal performance of the boiler but also restore efficiency and prevent more parts from failing.

  1. Banging noises inside the boiler

Have you woken up a couple of times in the middle of the night thinking there are burglars in the house only to realise it’s your boiler? Those loud, banging noises are often a source of concern. It’s almost light something is fighting to get out of the boiler.

Cause: The loud noises are the result of an airlock in the central heating pump, which can cause kittling. If it’s been a while since you had the system cleaned out, it’s possible, limescale and sludge build-up hitting against the sides of the boiler.

Believe it or not, the problem is not as severe as it sounds. Nevertheless, you need to have it addressed as soon as because. If not fixed in time, the problem can lead to some costly fixes later on.

Fix: If the problem is an airlock, it can be fixed if the boiler has a bleed screw. If the boiler has a bleed screw, the fix is quite easy. For build-up, all you need is a power flush and an inhibitor to prevent the problem from repeating itself.

It’s highly likely that anywhere in the life of your boiler you will encounter one of more these problems. As the Worcester boiler grows older, it’s more susceptible to run into problems. By having such information, you are better equipped to know when you need to call an engineer and when you can quickly and safely handle the problem by yourself.

Before you decide to take matters into your own hands, make sure you read the instructions on the user manual carefully and follow them.

5 Common Ideal Boilers Problems

When choosing a new boiler, most homeowners focus on the benefits and features that each brand has to offer. It’s equally important to check any potential weak points of the boiler brand you settle on, so you’re aware of what to expect.

Life without a boiler is not pretty and neither is a cold shower. That’s why being aware of the most common problems your Ideal boiler is going to suffer is critical in ensuring your boiler downtime is as minimal as possible. At New Boiler Nottingham, we have this quick guide resolving common Ideal boiler problems.

  1. Ignition failure

The ignition problem is more common with Ideal combi boilers. Before the failed ignition, you will hear a sparking sound as the boiler is trying to ignite before going into a lockout. An orange light will then turn on the control panel.

The boiler lockout is a safety measure and not necessarily part of the problem. Once the ignition issues have been sorted, the boiler should be able to fire away without any issues.

Why not also read: 5 Common Worcester Boiler Problems

Cause: Several problems could cause a failed ignition in a boiler. It’s vital to have the boiler problem properly diagnosed to avoid further problems. Some parts to pay close attention to when diagnosing the boiler are the ignition sensors which could be blocked by years of carbon deposits and other debris.

Fix: sometimes, cleaning the sensors can fix the problem. However, if the boiler has been in operation for quite some time, it makes more sense to replace the sensors. Because the boiler has to be stripped down, it’s best to have an engineer come and tend to the boiler.

  1. The boiler is leaking

Boiler leaks are common with all boiler brands given the high-pressure working environment and the abrasive nature of water. As the boiler grows older, it’s more likely to leak. Even though boiler leaks are easy to fix, it’s important to ensure they are repaired promptly. If the leak is left unrepaired, it could lead to other boiler problems like low boiler pressure and might also cause the heat exchanger to fail.

Cause: Seals take the most blame for boiler leaks. As the boiler vibrates, the seal can get loose or fall apart. If you recently adjusted the pressure of the boiler and set it above the recommended limit, the pressure valve can blow out of position to relieve the pressure and prevent further damage to the boiler.

Fix: Before you can try any drastic fixes, first check the heat pump and make sure it has not come loose, which could let water escape. Tightening the pump could stop the leak.

If tightening the pump doesn’t work, then you have to focus on the seal, which means you have to install a new pump which makes more sense. For leaks along pipes, the fix is easier unless the pipework was not installed correctly. If that’s the case, you need to call in a boiler engineer to re-install the pipework.

  1. Loud explosive noise on ignition

Any weird noises coming from your boiler are always a reason for concern. The loud bangs from your boiler during ignition have scared you on more than one occasion. Needless to mention, the banging sounds serious and it could be if it’s not quickly fixed.

This problem is more common in the Icos and Isar range of Ideal boilers, but you might also experience the same challenge with other boiler models as well.

Causes: Boilers attempt to ignite three times. In this case, the boiler fails to ignite in the first and second attempts. When it ignites in the third attempt, there’s a lot of gas that has accumulated in the chamber, which results in the explosion.

Fix: The flame sensor is usually to blame in most cases. It fails to detect the flame and the boiler doesn’t ignite normally. It’s recommended to have a boiler engineer look that the flame sensor and other ignition leads.

After replacing the flame sensor and doing a diagnostic on all the other ignition leads, you need to have another look at everything and ensure the ignition chamber is getting the right amount of gas. Also, ensure you adjust the speed of the fan before you attempt to restart the boiler.

When it comes to matters relating to gas and ignition, it’s best to let an experienced boiler engineer handle the diagnosis and the repairs.

  1. Boiler won’t switch on

This fault might sound very similar to the failed ignition one, but it’s slightly different. Owners of the Isar and Icos Ideal boilers might face this problem more often than users with other types of boilers. When this problem happens, it looks like the boiler has given up. But, the cause of the problem is quite simple and can be fixed.

Cause: Most of the time, the boiler is just having some wiring problems. The PCB is usually the problem. But you can start with other simpler problems like checking the plugs and the sockets to make sure they are not the problem.

If the sockets and plugs check out, you can use a multimeter to check voltage supply throughout the circuit board. Wiring upgrade can get the boiler working properly again.

If that doesn’t work or everything seems fine, you can then resort to checking the PCB. PCBs are complex circuit boards and are the hive of boiler controls. If the PCB fails or has a fault, it’s often better to replace the entire unit.

  1. Gurgling noises

This boiler fail is often described in many different ways by different homeowners. The only similar description is that it sounds like water trying to escape. In most cases, this will happen when the weather is extremely cold or after the boiler has been in use for a number of years.

The problem doesn’t sound as dangerous as the banging noises, but it’s one that you should ignore.

Cause: The gurgling sounds are often caused by water trying to fit into narrow pipe ways as a result of a blockage. The condensate boiler is often affected in these cases. It can be affected by freezing in cold weather or a buildup of deposits over the years.

Fix: Luckily, the fix here is relatively simple. You have to expose the condensate pipe by removing the strip plate at the bottom of the boiler. Check for any water running out. Remove the condensate pipe trap and clear the blockage. If there are no blockages in sight, you can try thawing the pipe to melt frozen water and restore flow.

Boiler faults are very frustrating and can be quite an inconvenience. But when you know what to expect and what to do when it happens, life is much easier. With these quick faults and possible fixes, it’s easier to manage boiler breakdowns in the easiest and most affordable way possible.

Why You Should Power Flush Your Radiators?

Central heating offers a variety of benefits to every home. The most notable is that it provides hot water to the house. And, with help from the radiators, you also get a warm home safe from the biting cold. After using your central heating for some time, you might notice that the radiators are not as efficient as they were and, they might even have some hot spots.

That is when you need a power flush. However, while the power flush is the only alternative to getting rid of the sludge and scale that causes the radiators to be inefficient, most homeowners still don’t know why they need to have their radiators power flushed once in a while. Here are some of the key reasons why power flushing is important.

3 Reasons to Power Flush Radiators

To clear blockages and remove impurities

When you’re not using the central heating, the water is standing, and sludge settles. The narrow tubes in the radiators also cause sludge to settle and increase corrosion. As a result, over the years, a substantial amount of sludge and debris settles in the radiators hampering the movement of water.

This is why the radiators develop cold spots because the hot water is not able to get over the sludge. By power flushing, you can have these impurities removed and the blockages cleared allowing the water to circulate through the radiator with ease.

Restore efficiency

For the radiator to function, it relies on hot water circulating from the boiler and transferring the heat to the radiators which is then transferred to the room. When the radiator is clogged, hot water is not able to move around the radiator easily and efficiently. Because of this, most of the heat is lost before the water can go through the radiator.

If the waste and impurities have caused a blockage, then there’s no water going into the radiator at all. That means no heat can be transferred into the house. By clearing all the impurities and waste through power flushing, circulation of water can be restored. As a result, the radiators can get back to their job of transferring heat into the room before it’s lost.

To Save Money

Power flushing your radiators can also save you money. When your system is struggling to heat the house, a lot of heat is lost as the water strains to get to the radiator. As a result, you have to run your boiler for long hours which consumes more energy. Also, a lot of energy is wasted as water is trapped in between the blockages.

Once the radiators have been power flushed, the flow of water is restored. Your home gets warm faster and you will also notice that you don’t have to run your boiler for long periods. Because the transfer of heat is more efficient, you save money on your energy bills. Power flushing the radiators also reduces strain and pressure in the system reducing the chances of the system breaking down. So, you also save money on boiler repair costs.

Power flushing the radiators is a critical process in the maintenance and functioning of your radiators and central heating as a whole. It should be carried out once every few years. Not only will your radiators benefit from this process but you will too.